A Little Slip Stitch

When working with crochet stitches, the little slip stitch tends to get many of us crafters in a tizzy. It’s just a tiny place marker stitch of little significance, right? It’s not the most impressive, outstandingly beautiful, or most impressive stitch to learn to create, but it has great significance.

Generally speaking, slip stitches are most commonly used to connect two ends of a row/round when making something like a hat, for example. To make slip stitch (abbreviated “sl st” in patterns):

With a loop on your hook, insert your hook into the next stitch, pull up a loop, and then pull the yarn through the loop on your hook. Little sl st created.

Image

If this stitch is so small, why even use it? Why do you need it at all? Why not use a fancier stitch like a double crochet or even, oh, the popcorn stitch? Well, even though they are tiny and don’t seem to serve much of a purpose upon first observation, they are rather versatile little guys. As I mentioned previously, the main objective to using a sl st is to join one side of your work to another. Think of it as a little bridge. Without it, the two sides of your work just don’t go together and you’ll be left with an unattractive hole in your work.

Slip stitches can also be used to “sew” several pieces of work together, such as squares to make up a small baby blanket right on up to a King bed size afghan. Without the humble sl st, the pieces would just be small squares that wouldn’t be a very much use nor would they keep you very warm.

The most impressive, yet still humble, use for the sl st is as a design element. Since a sl st is the smallest stitch used, it lets the larger, more extravagant stitches shine. With the sl st nestled between the fancy stitches, it is not as likely to be noticed in comparison to the other stitches unless you look closely. You may have to even pull the other stitches apart to find the sl st happily hiding in the shadows.

 The last project I completed required a lot of slip stitches. As I was working on this particular piece, I was reminded of the Biblical story of David and Goliath. The account of the great battle between the Israelites and the Philistines can be found in 1 Samuel, Chapter 17. The Philistines were proud of their giant warrior, Goliath, which the Bible describes as being “six cubits and a span” tall with “bronze helmet on his head and wore a coat of scale armor of bronze weighing five thousand shekels; on his legs he wore bronze greaves, and a bronze javelin was slung on his back. His spear shaft was like a weaver’s rod, and its iron point weighed six hundred shekels.” Goliath was an impressive chunk of man flesh standing approximately 9 foot tall, clad in heavy armor that weighed about 175 pounds combined, and with an arrogant attitude… and the Israelites were terrified.

Goliath demanded that the Israelites choose just one man to fight him. “If he is able to fight and kill me, we will become your subjects; but if I overcome him and kill him, you will become our subjects and serve us,” Goliath shouted. This went on for 40 long days and nights. Goliath was just too big, too impressive, too strong.

Now, comes young David. He had brothers fighting on the Israelite side and Jesse, their father, sent David with some food (“ten cheeses”) to the commander and to check on this brothers “and bring back assurance from them.” David got up that morning and left their flock of sheep in the care of a shepherd, loaded up the food, and set out to check on his brothers. When he arrived, the two sides were facing each other, weapons drawn. David left his supplies and ran to the battle line to see about his brothers. “As he was talking with them, Goliath, the Philistine champion from Gath, stepped out from his lines and shouted his usual defiance, and David heard it. Whenever the Israelites saw the man, they all fled from him in great fear.”

That’s when the youth David, stepped up and said, “Let no one lose heart on account of this Philistine; your servant will go and fight him.”

Whoa! Hold the phone, David! This giant Goliath has been trained to be a warrior since he was young. David, you are just a young boy!

That’s when David told Saul of the Israelite army that “Your servant has been keeping his father’s sheep. When a lion or a bear came and carried off a sheep from the flock,  I went after it, struck it and rescued the sheep from its mouth. When it turned on me, I seized it by its hair, struck it and killed it. Your servant has killed both the lion and the bear; this uncircumcised Philistine will be like one of them, because he has defied the armies of the living God. The Lord who rescued me from the paw of the lion and the paw of the bear will rescue me from the hand of this Philistine.”

Imagine that kind of faith. Saul felt it, too. He helped David prepare for battle by dressing him in a typical battle attire – a suit of armor, a bronze helmet, and a heavy sword. The armor was so heavy, that David couldn’t walk around in the armor. Instead, he took it all off and asked for 5 smooth stones from the river.

So, David stood before Goliath “glowing with health and handsome” with a stick and a handful of rocks and Goliath was offended and despised David. Goliath yelled at him that he was going to give David’s flesh to the birds and wild animals. David stood and proclaimed, “You come against me with sword and spear and javelin, but I come against you in the name of the Lord Almighty, the God of the armies of Israel, whom you have defied. This day the Lord will deliver you into my hands, and I’ll strike you down and cut off your head. This very day I will give the carcasses of the Philistine army to the birds and the wild animals, and the whole world will know that there is a God in Israel. All those gathered here will know that it is not by sword or spear that the Lord saves; for the battle is the Lord’s, and he will give all of you into our hands.”

David ran towards Goliath, taking a stone, placing it into his sling, and let it fly. Could you imagine the breathless moments as the stone flew through the air and them landed with a thud into Goliath’s giant forehead… and then as 9 foot tall Goliath fell face first into the dusty ground.

Goliath was an impressive beast. David, the slip stitch.

There are so many lessons to be learned from this story, but the one I want to make is that no matter how insignificant or lowly you seem and feel, just remember the little slip stitch and David. You don’t have to be a fancy stitch, just a faithful small stitch will do.

 

 

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Crochet Chicken Earflap Hat DIY Pattern

Crochet Chicken Earflap Hat Pattern

ChickenHat

Recently I had a request for a chicken earflap hat and I didn’t have a pattern exactly how I imagined the hat to look. I used a free basic earflap hat pattern from Micah Makes, which you can find here. I omitted the color changes for the stripes and added another row of sc around the edge of the hat in tan yarn.

Materials I used:

  • Hobby Lobby’s I Love This Yarn in White
  • Hobby Lobby’s I Love This Yarn in Light Taupe
  • Red Heart Super Saver in Pumpkin
  • Hobby Lobby’s I Love This Yarn in Red
  • 2, 3/4″ Black Buttons
  • I-hook

Patterns for the Features

Eyes, Make 2 in Light Taupe yarn:

Row 1: sc 6 into a Magic Circle, pull tight and join with sl st in first sc.

Row 2: Ch 1, 2 sc into each sc around, join with sl st in first sc.

Row 3: Ch 1, *2 sc in next st, sc in next st. Repeat from * around. Join with sl st in first sc.

Row 4: Ch 1, sc in the first 2 st, 2 sc in next st. Repeat from * around. Join with sl st in first sc. Fasten off yarn and leave a long tail for sewing to the hat.

Pin the eyes to the hat, stitch into place using yarn tail. Then, sew the black button securely to the center of each eye for the pupil.

Beak, Make 1 in Pumpkin yarn:

Row 1: Ch 5, sc in second ch from the hook and across to end.

Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc2tog twice.

Row 3: Ch 1, turn, sc2tog.

Row 4: Ch 1, sc evenly around the beak. Fasten off yarn and leave a long tail for sewing onto the hat.

Sew the beak between the eyes using the tail of yarn.

Comb, Make 1 in Red yarn:

Ch 51, sc in 2nd ch from the hook and across to the end of the ch. Fasten off and leave a long tail.

Fold the strip into three portions (see picture for folding suggestion) and sew together at the bottom to hold it in place. Then, sew the comb onto the top of the hat.

For braided ties, cut 18 lengths of pumpkin orange yarn 36″ long. Use 9 lengths of yarn for each tie. See this tutorial on how to make the braided ties for your hat by Dearest Debi.

Long-Tail Elf Crochet Hat Free Pattern in Teen/Adult Size

There are lots of smaller sizes of crochet long-tail elf hats floating around the web, but not very many adult size. Here is one that I worked up that will fit an adult head 22-24″.  This pattern is written in US terms. This hat works up nicer if you know how to do the Magic Circle technique and how to change colors in the last stitch of the previous color row. Enjoy!

NCSULongtail

LONG-TAIL ELF CROCHET HAT PATTERN

You’ll need:

  • I-hook
  • Worsted Weight (4) Yarn – I used 2 main colors plus 1 accent color

PATTERN:

1:Using a Magic Circle, ch 2 and dc 6 into the circle. Join at the top of the first dc. Pull tight to close.

2 – 32: Ch 2, dc 6 around, join at the top of the first dc.

*NOTE: For a striped hat, change colors every odd numbered row.

33: Ch 2, dc 9 evenly around, join at the top of the first dc.

34: Ch 2, 2 dc in each dc around, join at the top of the first dc.

35: Ch 2, inc 4 evenly around, join at the top of the first dc.

36: Ch 2, inc 3 evenly around, join at the top of the first dc.

37-38: Ch 2, inc 2 evenly around, join at the top of the first dc.

39-41: Ch 2, inc 4 evenly around, join at the top of the first dc.

42-44: Ch 2, inc 6 evenly around, join at the top of the first dc.

45: Ch 2, inc 4 evenly around, join at the top of the first dc.

46: Ch 2, inc 2 evenly around, join at the top of the first dc.

47-50: Ch 2, dc in each st around, join at the top of the first dc.

52: Ch 2, dec 2 stitches evenly around, join at the top of the first dc.

52-53: Ch 2, *fpdc, dc. Repeat from * around, join at the top of the first dc.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Make a pom pom and attach to the end of the long tail.

This pattern is free for use to make hats for you to to sell. Please reference this pattern link if you list hats online.

ECULongtail

Little Red Monster Cuddle Blankie Pattern

Little Red Monster Cuddle Blankie Pattern Inspired by Sesame Street’s Elmo Character

Image

Our 21-month-old daughter is a blanket baby and has to have her “bits” when she goes wants to relax. She also loves Sesame Street’s Little Red Monster character, Elmo. Inspiration hit me this weekend as I was sitting at a craft fair at our local farmer’s market and I whipped up this small, simple “Little Red Monster” Cuddle Blankie for her. I would rate the pattern overall as easy. Here’s what I did:

For the blanket (approximately 12″ by 12″):

J-hook

Worsted weight yarn:

  • Hobby Lobby’s I Love This Yarn! in Red
  • Hobby Lobby’s I Love This Yarn! in White
  • Hobby Lobby’s I Love This Yarn! in Black (just a small scrap piece for the mouth)
  • Red Heart in Carrot or Pumpkin (you’ll only need a scrap for the orange nose)

Pattern note: This is a simple corner-to-corner square and it’s not totally my original pattern. This particular style of square has been around for quite some time and there is not an author who I am aware of to credit this work.

1. Using red yarn: Ch 4, sc in 2nd ch from the hook and in the next 2 ch. (3 sc)

2. *For remainder of pattern, work in BACK LOOPS ONLY (BLO)* Ch 1, turn, 2 sc in first sc, sc in next sc, 2 sc in last sc. (5 sc)

3. Ch 1, turn, 2 sc in first sc, sc in each sc to last sc, 2 sc in last sc.

**REPEAT row 3 until the side of the square measures approximately 10.5-11″. Quick geometry lesson: You’ll be measuring the LEG of the triangle, not the HYPOTENUSE. In other words, the LEG of the triangle will be one of the four sides of your finished square.

Next Rows: Ch 1, turn, sc2tog in first two sc from previous row, sc in each sc to last two sc, sc2tog in last two sc.

**REPEAT this pattern until you have four stitches remaining. At this point, you’ll have a square worked on the diagonal.

Last Row: Ch 1, turn, sc2tog twice, finish off and weave in ends.

Edging: Join white yarn to any sc with a sl st. Ch 1, sc in same st, sc in next st, picot in next st. Repeat around then fasten off white yarn and weave in the ends.

  • Picot: sc, ch 3, sc in 3rd ch.

ElmoBitsSquare

For the Little Red Monster:

G-hook

Stuffed Critter Fluff (ex: Polyfil brand)

Yarn colors listed above (red, white, black, orange)

Two small black buttons and white thread to sew them on.

Stitch marker (optional) – Since this portion is worked in continuous rounds.

ARMS: Make 2, of course.

1. Working into a Magic Circle, sc 6. Do not join – work in continuous rounds.

2. 2 sc in each sc around.

3. sc in each sc around. Repeat this row until the arm is 4″ long. Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing the arms onto the blanket. I didn’t stuff the arms, but you are welcome to stuff them if you prefer.

HEAD:

1. Working into a Magic Circle, sc 6. Do not join – work in continuous rounds.

2. 2 sc in each sc around.

3. sc in sc, 2sc in next sc. Repeat around.

4. sc around.

5. sc 2, 2 sc in next st. Repeat around.

6. sc 3, 2 sc in next st. Repeat around.

7. sc 4, 2 sc in next st. Repeat around.

8 – 11. sc around. Stuff head at this point.

12. 4 sc, sc2tog in next two st. Repeat around.

13. 3 sc, sc2tog in next two st. Repeat around.

14. 2 sc, sc2tog in next two st. Repeat around.

15. sc, sc2tog in next two st. Repeat around, then fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing the head closed and onto the blanket.

EYES: Make 2.

1. Using white yarn: Working into a Magic Circle, sc 10. Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing the eyes onto the head.

2. Using sewing thread or DMC embroidery thread in white, sew the black buttons onto the center of each white crochet circle to finish the eyes. NOTE: If you are making this for a baby or a small child that likes to bite or pull at things, stitch the blacks of the eyes using yarn or thread instead. The buttons are a choking hazard.

NOSE:

1. Working into a Magic Circle, sc 6 into the ring. Do not join.

2. 2 sc in each sc around (12 sc total). Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing onto the head. _________

At this point, you’ll have your:

  • Square blanket
  • 2 arms
  • 1 head
  • 2 eyes
  • 1 nose

Using the tails from the eyes and nose, stitches the pieces onto the head. See the photo for placement suggestion. With a scrap piece of black yarn, stitch a smile onto the face.

ElmoBitsFace

Then, find the center of the blanket by folding it in half, and then in half again. Mark it with a pin. With the long tail left at the bottom of the head, stitch the head using small, sturdy stitches to the center of the blanket.

Next, place the arms on either side of the head and stitch them down with small, sturdy stitches to the blanket. I placed the arms on my sample right next to the head and stitched them down.

Ta-da! You are completed your Little Red Monster Cuddle Blankie! Enjoy!

ElmoBitsUp

Turtle Amigurumi & Turtle Shell Hexagon Baby Blankie

For this project, I used the Turtle Crochet Along Pattern – “Sheldon” from Little Muggles. You can find the free amigurumi pattern for Sheldon here. You can also find Little Muggles on Facebook.

TurtleSet

I made my first attempt in classic turtle colors in greens and browns as a baby shower gift for a little guy, but a non-traditional version is in the works!

If you like the colors I used to make my Sheldon the Turtle, here is what I used:

Caron Simply Soft in Bone for his head, legs/feet, tail

Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice in Dusty Green for top of his shell

Red Heart Super Saver in Cafe for the bottom of his shell

Michael’s Loop and Threads Snuggly Wuggly in Silly Sprite

I stitched the amigurumi turtle as specified in the pattern using a G-hook (4.00 mm) except I crocheted in the back loops only (BLO) for row 18. This is the row for the color change from the olive green to the brown for the bottom of the shell. Stitching in the BLO helps the bottom of the shell lay more flat once it is stuffed with the polyester stuffing. The black safety eyes are pretty easy to find, but I purchased mine from Joann’s Fabrics. They also come in colors and different sizes if you prefer to change up the look.

For the hexagon motif turtle shell blankie, I used this free Interchangable Hexagon pattern from Galler Yarns by Marie Segares. I used the circle hexagon option with a few modifications. I used a J-hook (6.00 mm) since the pattern didn’t call for any particular size and I wanted the blanket to be lighter weight for summer and more stretchy. To begin, I used the magic ring method and double crocheted 13 into the ring and joined to the top of the first double crochet. I did not count the chains at the beginning of each round as a stitch and added an additional double crochet in each round as a result. I do this because I don’t like the look of using chain stitches a stitch in the structure of a motif. If this is not your cup of tea or if it makes you nervous to change up a pattern, you are welcome to make the motif as written. It turns out just fine as written.

I used the Snuggly Wuggly yarn in Silly Sprite for rounds 1 through 3 then changed color to the Caron Simply Soft in Bone for round 4. I made a total of 31 of the motifs and arranged them in 4 rows of 4 and 3 rows of 5. You can make as many as you wish to make the blankie smaller or larger. The 31 motif blankie was big enough to be used as a car seat blanket.

Now, to attach the hexagon motifs together I used the Red Heart in Cafe using a H-hook (5.00 mm). I held two motifs wrong sides together and single crocheted them together in the back loop of each motif. In the corners I worked 2 sc. This takes some time to think through how to arrange your motifs, so you may have to lay them all out on a table or on the floor and make a “game plan” on how you want to attach them. For mine, I started out with a couple of central hexagons, then added hexagons along each edge of the central hexagons and went from there.

AttachingHexagonsSC

Attach motifs together with SC

CentralHexsWhen you get to the point when you are attaching hexagons together and come across a portion you have already connected, here is what I did to make the connections look more finished. I inserted my hook into the sc near the connection point and slip stitched into it. Just that easy! If you just fasten off your yarn at the last sc of the motif connection, you’ll have a gap that doesn’t look quite as neat.

HexagonAttachmentTogetherSC

For the edging, I used the Red Heart in Cafe and the H-hook and single crocheted around the edge. In the corners that “stick out”, you’ll want to do 2 sc in those and for the corners that “come in” you’ll want to sc2tog over two stitches. This will make the blanket edge lay more flat.

CornersDetail

After all the motifs are connected and the edging is completed weave in all those ends and you’re done!

If you don’t want to make this yourself, I’ll be happy to make a turtle, the blanket, or the set for you! I welcome custom orders.

“Chasing Chevrons” Yarn & Beach Bag Fabric Lining Pattern & Tutorial

CCWhaleBeachBagCollage_KGreen

The first step actual step is to make your “Chasing Chevrons” crochet beach bag in your choice of colors. The pattern can be purchased from A Crocheted Simplicity by Jennifer Poink. It is a very well written pattern with loads of pictures and the bag turns out beautifully as is. However, after loosing many small items such as pens and lip balms out of my last crochet bag, I wanted to add a fabric lining to my gorgeous chevron beach bag. 

To purchase the crochet bag pattern by A Crocheted Simplicity:

On Ravelry

On Etsy

I have listed the yarns and fabrics I used to make the CCWhaleBeachBag1bags at the end this tutorial. For my bag, I omitted making the crochet handles and omitted the reinforced bottom with plastic canvas step. I also stopped crocheting at round 39, which omitted the last 4 rows that were meant to show through the X & O stitches from round 29. I used acrylic worsted weight yarns for my bags. You can also use a worsted weight cotton yarn as specified by the crochet bag pattern.

For reference, my bag measured 45” around. If your bag is smaller is larger than an inch or so, you’ll need to adjust your bag lining size a bit.

Materials Needed:

  • 1.5 yards cotton fabric
  • Coordinating thread
  • Extra Heavy Stabilizer (optional)
  • Basic sewing supplies (sewing machine, ruler, iron, scissors, sewing needles, etc.)

From your fabric, cut the following pieces. Measurements are listed by WIDTH by LENGTH. Plan your cuts of fabric accordingly if you are working with a fabric with a direction. I worked with 1.5 yards of fabric and had a little less than ½ yard left at the end of the project. I always like to get a little extra just because.
Fabric Cuts

 

Here are the PDF files for the Bottom Template Piece. You’ll need to print them out and tape them together to make one large piece. Make sure your printer prints the pages out at 100% by measuring the 1″ square that is drawn onto the pattern piece. If the square is not 1″ by 1″, then your printer settings are off.

ChevronsBagBottomTemp1

ChevronsBagBottomTemp2

Optional: Since I didn’t add the plastic canvas in the crochet portion of the bottom of the bag, I cut another bottom template piece from extra heavy stabilizer I had on hand. I have included this extra step in the tutorial, but if you have used the plastic canvas you can omit this extra step.

1. Sew the bottom fabric piece to the stabilizer close to the edge of the fabric.

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2. Sew the small 3×12 strip to the end of the 12×44 strip to make the side of the bag. Since the bag is 45” around and my fabric was only 44” around, I had to add a small piece to make the lining fit. Use a ¼” seam allowance and serge the edge. I also serged the top and bottom of the strip at this point.

2013-06-22_13-17-27_337
3. Take the 12×25 strip and fold it right sides together lengthwise (like a hotdog). Using a ¼” seam allowance, sew along one short side, sew along the long side, and down a portion of the other short side. Trim the corners of the fabric and turn the strip right side out through the hole left in the un-sewn section of the short side. You will now have a piece that measures 6” wide by 25” long.

2013-06-22_12-50-45_677
4. Find the center of the side of the bag strip and mark it with a pin, then do the same for the pocket strip. The TOP of the pocket will be the fold and the sew side will be at the bottom of the pocket. Line up the pins and start to pin the pocket in place. I added the pockets a little lower than halfway so that full pockets wouldn’t tip the bag over as easily. I measured up 2” from the bottom. Sew along the short side, across the bottom, and up the other short side. I back stitched to the top of the pocket to reinforce the top of the pocket.
5. You’ll have one big, long pocket at the point. You could leave it like that, but I divided mine up. Mark the pocket at 3”, 6”, 12” and 18”. This makes 2 small pockets and 3 large pockets. Sew straight lines along the marks. Don’t forget to backstitch to the top of the pocket to reinforce it.

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6. Now, we’re going to make the side strip with attached pocket into a tube. Pin the short ends right sides together and sew together using a ¼” seam allowance. Serge the raw edge and set it aside.
7. Next step is to make the handles. Find the three 6×24 strips and sew them together using ¼” seam allowance to make one long strip. Iron open the seams, then fold the strip lengthwise (like a hotdog) and press along the fold. Open the strip back up and fold the sides back towards the center press mark. Then, fold the two sides together and pin in place. Your strip should now be 1.5” wide. Continue to fold and pin all the way down the strip.
8. Sew along the fold close to the edge. Turn the strip and then sew close to the edge down the other edge. You should have sewn down both long edges of the handle strip. Now, fold the handle in half and cut it in half. This will make two handles that are 1.5” wide by approximately 75” long. Serge the unfinished (short) ends of the handles.

Handles
9. Now, we’re going to attach the fabric handles to the crocheted bag. Insert the end of the handle through the strap hole from front to back. Overlap the end of the handle onto itself about 2 inches. Fold the serged end down a bit and then sew along the edge of the fold 3-4 times to reinforce the handle. Repeat for all 4 ends of the handle, remembering that the handles do not cross over the bag (see original crochet handle pattern for additional explanation). Set the bag with attached handles aside.

2013-06-22_18-38-45_186
10. Next, we are going to make the fabric ribbon strip for the bow that is woven through the X & O crochet stitches of the bag. Sew the two 4×44 strips together to make one long strip of fabric. Fold the strip in half lengthwise (like a hotdog) and sew along one short end and along the length of the strip, leaving the other short end un-sewn. Using a long dowel rod, broom handle, or another type of stick, turn the strip right side out. Iron the strip flat and then fold the un-sewn into the inside of the strip and stitch closed. I actually stitched both ends so they would match. Weave this strip loosely through the X & O crochet stitches of round 29 of the bag. Plan where you would like your bow to be placed and then tie it into a bow. The whale bag has the bow centered towards the middle while the neon and gray bag I shifted the bow towards the handle a bit. I like it both ways, but you choose what you like for your bag.

CCWhaleBeachBag2
11. Almost done! Next we need to hem the top of the lining. Fold down the top serged edge towards the wrong side of the fabric, then fold it down again ½” and pin in place. Continue to fold down the edge around the entire top of the lining, then use your iron to press. Stitch close to the edge all the way around.

2013-06-22_14-28-14_409
12. Now we’ll add the bottom piece. This may take some patience to get it pinned correctly, so take your time. First, figure out where you would like your pockets in relation to the inside of your bag. Do you want them on the longer side or the shorter side? Start pinning the un-hemmed edge of the lining tube to the bag bottom right sides together. Around the curves of the oval, you may have to gather up the lining a bit to get it to fit. Using a ¼” seam allowance, sew the bag bottom to the lining twice. Once the bottom was attached, I serged the edge to keep the fabric from fraying.
13. Turn the crochet portion of the bag wrong side out. Turn the fabric lining right side out. Using the end of your ironing board, line up the bottom of the crochet bag to the fabric bottom. Start pining the top hem of the lining between round 27 and 28 of the crochet bag. Be careful not stretch the crochet out of shape pining the lining. Once it is all evenly pined in place, you’ll need to hand whip stitch the lining to the bag using even stitches with equal tension all the way around. You could try to machine sew it, but sometimes the yarn tends to “move” too much this way.

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14. Once this step is done, turn your bag right side out and enjoy your handy work! I would love to see your unique color and fabric combinations.

Now, as promised, here is what I used for my two bags.

 

For the whale inspired beach bag pictured in this tutorial:

  • FABRIC: Jack and Lulu for Dear Stella in On Hands on Deck – Whales Green. (Purchased at fabric.com) 1.5 yards
  • YARNS:
  • Hobby Lobby’s I Love This Yarn in White
  • Hobby Lobby’s I Love This Yarn in Jelly Bean
  • Michael’s Loops and Threads Impeccable in Navy – main color; purchase 2 skeins
  • Red Heart in Baby Pink

 

CCNeonGrayBeachBag_KGreenFor the neon & gray modern-look beach bag:

  • FABRIC: Michael Miller in Neo Dot Lemon (Purchased at fabric.com) 1.5 yards
  • YARNS:
  • Hobby Lobby’s I Love This Yarn in Yellow Neon
  • Hobby Lobby’s I Love This Yarn in Light Gray
  • Michael’s Loops and Threads Impeccable in True Gray – main color; purchase 2 skeins